Antartica day log Dec 23rd 2006

Ted Pitt 23rd December 2006

"Good Morning, Good People!" How could it be 6.10am? The day started with Henrik's "Strine" with a Scandinavian lilt.

How could this day top the previous amazing days that my brother Jeff and I have had so far? We were about to find out!

Oue breakfast of porridge, poached eggs and cocktail sausages were waiting for us to enjoy and fill ourselves for the activities of the day ahead. The usual routine of "pass the vegemite!" from table to table could be heard in both the port and starboard dining rooms.  Tina had phoned home to New Zealand for Christmas and her family asked where are you now? She replied, "Just a minute, let me take a look. Ah yes, we are just passing a glacier on our way to the Skonthorp Bay!" You can imagine the reaction of her family. We were then informed to get our layers on, as we will be ashore for a couple of hours at the Argentine station of Almirante Brown. One lady quipped "layer it like a Sarah Lee cake commercial!"

We arrived at the base and scrambled up the stairs to look at the red huts contrasted with the towering glaciers and black rocks. The only inhabitants to greet us were the Gentoo penguins who had made their nests around the huts. They were curious but not perturbed at our presence. They are used to having aliens stare at them and click those black and silver things in front of their faces. Everybody then scattered with most adventurers choosing to climb the slope behind the camp and see if they can imitate the penguins on a slide from the top on their bellies. It was good fun to hear the yells and whoops as the bodies flew down and hit the bumps on the way down. Jeff, Inger and I chose to check out the marker half way up the hill. It read "AQUI ESTUVO ESPANA, which Inger roughly translated to "long live Spain!" Above it, the top was sawn off and another official plaque "ejfrcito argentino instituto geografico militar 1989" which seemed to declare, "this is OURS!"

We had to be off the base by 9am as S.S. Vavilov, the Peregrine charted ship was to invade the penguins after us. I took the Zodiac with Tina, who was let out of the kitchen for the morning, to take the tour of Paradise Bay. We were automatically concerned as to what would be for lunch without her culinary skills at the helm but she allayed our fears saying that the nacho beans and trimmings would be ready for our return. (It was a scrumptious lunch!)

Tina guided our craft along the cliff face where we were dazzled by the orange lichen and blue malachite (copper carbonate, according to Mark), which looked like paint scrawls. It gave me images of the graffiti on the walls in the Bronx! We were also treated to the cormorant and sheathbill colonies clutching onto nooks and crannies in the cliff faces. Tina then zoomed up the engine and we could hear the broken slabs of glacier pieces being grated up under the zodiac, which, to me, sounded like grinding fresh coffee beans in my New York kitchen!

We then turned the corner into Skinter bay to experience the Skontorp glacier with its huge cliffs dropping down into the blue green ocean.  It was magical with the huge pylons of tall sharp angled white glaciers soaring to the sky with deep blue and aquamarine crevasses in between, reflecting the light beyond. It evoked images of the glass tower canyons of New York City for me. Tina cut the engine and we drifted around the bay soaking in the spiritual atmosphere of this blue and white Camelot unspoiled by the hustle bustle of the Christmas rush and preparations occurring in our hometowns.

We then reluctantly headed back to our blue ship in the distance. We encountered the multicoloured paddling kayakers who were zigzagging amongst the glaciers and oxygen starved deep blue ice flows, but looked like they were also enjoying the splendour of the frigid pristine landscape.

Captain Gena then headed towards the Lemaire Channel after lunch. We were up on the bridge watching the glaciers, which seemed to be blocking our way. We had heard stories of the passage being blocked by ice flows as it is narrow and has mountains on either side not leaving much room for error.

I looked on the radar screen for the images of the glaciers to see a clear path, but it did not look good. However, Captain Gena and his crew diligently manoeuvred our craft through the obstacles and we made it through. The guidebooks call this magnificent channel "Kodak alley", and I can see why! Sue, Tina and Judd added to the eye candy with delicious vanilla and caramel ice cream cones with sprinkles served on deck which enhanced the fun and enjoyment.

We then had a brilliant sunny warm afternoon on Pieterman island to enjoy the Gentoo and Adelie penguins and a sole basking Weddell seal in their natural setting. It was fun to see them jumping and diving in the crystal clear water then waddle ashore, preen themselves and head up to their mate patiently sitting on the nest awaiting their return. It was good to hike up to the top of the rocky hills and view the abandoned settlement with all of the activity of the birds and penguins going about their daily routines.

In my hiking exploration, I had ventured over to the other side of the hill and found a lagoon that the kayakers had explored below me. It looked very inviting and I had pangs of envy of the ability of the seagoing crew to explore these hiding spots. At the end of our visit, Henrik asked if we wanted to explore the shoreline and glaciers. I asked if we could see if we could go to the lagoon, and we did. It was amazing with the glaciers hiding the entrance and the cliff faces dropping down into the deep blue water, which appeared to be 150 feet deep. I told Henrik that he had "made my day!"

We headed back to the ship and had a delicious curry dinner and received instructions for our overnight camping expedition on Pleneau Island. "Dress in layers and go to the bathroom before you leave and don't forget to turn your tags!" There were 30 out of 51 adventurers who chose to brave the 0 degrees C temperature. However, it was a crisp clear night and the polar wind was low.

We arrived on smooth rocky shore at about 11pm and marvelled at the sun slowly sinking behind the hill full of penguins about midnight. The setting ball of flame in the sky created a glorious pink reflection on the white and black mountains, Blue Ocean and ice cream white glaciers surrounding us. It was comforting to know that we had a fast zodiac on hand to whisk us back to our warm bunks should the weather change.

What an end to the day! We were lying on the ground in Antarctica looking up at the reddish blue sunset sky filtered with wisps of clouds contemplating the universe, thinking of family at home getting ready for the Christmas celebrations, missing them but at the same time, we were feeling fortunate to be able to experience the glory and the power of nature in a most spectacular setting.

Does it get any better?